August/September 2013 BUENOS AIRES TO USHUAIA

30/8/2013

 After 2 days in Buenos Aires recovering from the flight it was time for the off, picked up the bike from Dakar Motos and headed for Cordoba.Got a bit carried away and instead of taking a leasurely two day ride made it by about 8 at night and spent two very nice days there not doing very much at all.

1/9/2013

Cordoba to Rio Colorado

 Bright early start in beautiful weather.Hotel pre-booked in Rito Colorado just to give an added motivation to complete the 600 miles.

 Funny how the mind doesn't connect the obvious7/9/2013. Somehow I had thought Pampas Grass was something special  but having ridden through 600 miles of nothing but Pampas grass I concluded that in these parts it is not quite so exotic.Arrived just before dark with the weather changing from very nice to a bit miserable.

2/9/2013

Rio Colorado to Comodoro Rivadavia

Another 600 mile day ahead but the forecast looked good and whats life without a challenge? and is there any better feeling than a long road, a full tank and the sun on your back?

 The scale of the size of Agentina means that no opportunity to fill up can be missed especially with petrol stations 100 miles apart.This is a lesson quickly learned when riding the last 50 miles to a garage praying there is enough left in the tank.

 The weather started getting colder, wetter and windier. It is slightly disconcerting when riding through torrential rain with the visibility getting less and less and realising there is absolutely nowhere to shelter.By this far South there is nothing, absolutely nothing, not even a tree.Luckily when the sleet started it didn't stick and I was soon through to the other side.I was feeling really sorry for myself when I came across a local biker stopped by the side of the road, thinking he was in trouble I stopped to see if he needed help. Turned out he was just frozen almost stiff and soaked to the skin, at least I was dry so with a HiHo Silver I continued on my way eventually arriving at the hotel. I think it is fair to say that I had discovered a whole new level of coldness but it was nothing that lying half an hour in a hot bath couldn't fix, at least I had stopped shivering.

3/9/2013

Comodora Rivadavia to Rio Gallegas.

 To say the going is boring is an understatement, mile after mile of more or less straight road through frozen windy nothing, not even a tree. I was getting used to these 600 mile days but I was starting to get weary and broke my own rule and went straight to the hotel rather than filling the tank.
 I was busy congratulating myself on the good progress and decided I could definitely get back to Buenos Aires after a couple of nights in Ushuaia but in fact I had taken my foot off the pedal and in the warm glow of a nice meal had an early night in preparation for the triumphant cruise to the end of the world.

4/9/2013
Rio Gallegos to Cerro Sombrero

 Riding long hours provides the opportunity to come up with most of the answers to the worlds problems as I see them and leaves time to ponder on more mudane things perhaps a little more relevant to the task at hand. Today was to be the day when some of my wondering would be answered
  350 miles,2 borders to cross and a ferry was all for to day and as I set off feeling confident I ignored garages on the far side of the road waiting for one on my side, of course Murphy came into play and there was none on my side but the border was only 40 kms away and there would surely be a garage there. I don't know if I mentioned how remote these places are but riding out of the mist to find a queue waiting for the crossing to open it was evident there were no petrol pumps.My GPS showed showed fuel in 140 kms which was definitely outside my comfort zone but instead of retracing my steps I decided that an intrepid traveller doesn't turn back and after muddling through the border formalities I carried on to the ferry.Two things are forever etched into my brain from when I reached the Magellen Straights, the fuel warning light does in fact work as it came on some miles before and there was a further 39 kms to cover from where I was to the nearest filling station in Cerro Sombrero.

 The ferry is a simple affair and you ride on one side and off the other ( after the crossing obviously ). I was sitting berating myself for being so stupid when a Volkswagon Caravanette rolled onto the ferry, German registered belonging to Martin and Kathi who were on a world tour.My bacon was saved and I borrowed 5 litres of fuel which I would replace in Cerro Sombrero. All was well with my world and I sped off to cover the 39 kms to the garage.
 The garage was off the main route but easily found and after the filling up and replacing the fuel I bade farewell to Martin and Kathi and set off.I thought it a little strange when the GPS didn't direct me back to the road I had come off but thought this was a short cut back to the main road, it was. Unfortunately in my haste at celebrating victory the night before I hadn't cross checked the route between Mapquest and my GPS. Anyway after getting back to the main road I was directed to turn left which I duly did.After a few kms I stopped and recalculated the route, something was not right  as I seemed to be the only person on this road. The trusty GPS came up with the same route so I carried on with the road getting slowly worse and my progress getting slower and slower.
 To cut a long story short I found from practical experience that when you are lying sprawling in the mud it doesn't feel any better because nobody is around to see.I also discovered that even at my advanced age I can manage to pick the bike up alone, oh how I laughed when, shaking from the effort and leaning on the upright bike, I wondered how I was going to get back on it. 
 Your intrepid world traveller found a way and carried on into the fire. The going was slow to say the least and I proved beyond doubt that my bike is not the ideal model for offroad. Something else I hadn't realised was that mud can pack so as to make the bike unmoveable and yes, that smell was the clutch burning out.

 I had only been standing next to my broken bike for 30 mins when my fellow world travellers, Martin and Kathi came along but not wanting to delay them I refused help and went back to wondering what to do next.
 I waited a further two hours without seeing a soul and made a decision. I felt like a cowboy carrying his saddle from a dead horse as I slung my hold all over my shoulder and headed off tramping through the mud. 
 Luckily for me Martin and Kathi were not in a four wheel drive and had only got another couple of kms.I gratefully accepted a lift back to Cerro Sombrero and having checked into an hotel I headed to the Carabinieri who called a transport company.Before I went to bed the bike had been recovered.

5/9/2013
Cerro Sombrero to Punta Arenas

  The original plan (before I got carried away) was to store the bike in Punta Arenas and I had been armed with the address of a Garage,probably the only place within a thousand miles that would be able to sort out my problems, so it was to Alejandro Lago's workshop I headed in a pick-up with the broken bike on the back.One sight of his immaculate workshop was enough to know that I was in good hands.
 In some ways this area is remote beyond belief but I didn't stay in one hotel that didn't have free wifi so had been able to pre-book hotels all the way.The one in Punta Arenas was small, reasonable but excellent with nice room and very friendly staff.

6/9/2013
 Went to see my bike which was by now spotless, sorted things with Alejandro and spent the rest of the day wandering about and figuring out how to get back to BsAs, or rather biting the bullet and booking the ticket for the 12 hour bus ride to Ushuaia to catch a flight to BsAs.

7/9/2013
 Bright and early at the bus station carrying my butties and water for the ride dreading the prospect of the next 12 hours.
 As things turned out it was not nearly as bad as i had feared, even the joys of four hours on a collectivo eventually passed.So every cloud has a silver lining, If I had not taken the wrong turn I would still be wondering if I could lift the bike unaided, what would happen if I broke down in the middle of nowhere and I would still be ignorant about travelling to the end of the world by bus.Of course I am now left with a 4 day journey back to my bike but at least the weather will be better.



                      COMING NEXT IN NOV. 2013

ARGENTINA JUNE 2013

18/6/2013
 The three hour wait for the flight passed in a flash, there must have been a conspiracy between the makers of all the time saving devices we have in our lives and the inventors of the smartphones.Looking around the lounge people of all ages, creeds and colours were all doing one thing, getting rid of the excess time, fiddling, chatting, surfing etc on their phones.

 An uneventful flight and arrival at the hotel in a coma.

19/6/2013
 Went to the money-changers and was disapointed to find that the rate was down slightly from last time, 7.7 pesos for a dollar instead of 8. Still it's much better that the official rate of 5.5. Paying cash for everything is ok but walking the streets of Buenos Aires with wads of cash heightens the awareness.
 Arrived on schedule to collect the bike , very relieved to find i could still fit into my riding gear although my voice did go a bit squeaky and breathing became difficult.
 It's been some time since I last rode and after struggling to get on board i was back to wobbling up the road and out into the Buenos aires traffic.Made it back to the hotel but finding myself in the wrong lane and having to get across 5 lanes to do a U-turn is not for the faint hearted.

20/6/2013

 Common sense got the better of me and had another day trying to catch up on sleep.

21/6/2013

Awake bright an early and gave myself a good talking to to get started. By the time I had paid the hotel bill and got my panniers down to the bike the sweat was pouring off me.
 Out of the carpark into the cold air and i was on my way to Parana, the capital of Entre Rios. one note to self, check that the GPS is "on line". it was a bit strange to find whichever way I turned It was indicating the correct way,also a bit annoying  as I had turned off the autopista by mistake.When I eventually got out of the city it was nice to find good roads and lots of flat green landscape, was a bit surprised to find so much water but i guess the region being called Entre Rios should have been a clue.
 Whilst riding and reflecting on all the meat in the restaurants it dawned on me I didn't see a single cow, they must be hiding.
 Argentinians seem to have the same method as we Brits when dealing with non mother tongue speakers,a toll booth operater responded to my Manuel impressions of "que?" , "que?"by yelling louder and louder, eventually looking up from her newspaper to flap her arms around. I now know what " pasada la barriere" means.
 These GPSs are good, and it seems my free download from "Proyecto Mappear"is spot on because it led me straight to my pre-booked lodging.I was a little perplexed as I couldn't figure out from which place they had taken the photograph for the internet, anyway they had a locked garage for the bike and the rooms are clean.

22/6/13

Very pleasant day spent walking around Parana, celebrations underway for their bicentennial.

I GUESS THIS IS PROGRESS??

Very nice place and strolling in the afternoon sun, people watching, it was evident that wherever I have been people are doing exactly the same things, enjoying time with the family.

RIVER BANK AT PARANA




Not having my insurance green card and tomorrow being the last day of a very long ( 4 days ) weekend I have decided to go to Concordia, on the border with Uraguay and attempt the crossing on Monday morning.

 Saw lots of cows today so that's one less thing to worry about.

23/6/2013

 Didn't know what to expect in the way of traffic being the end of a four day public holiday but the road was quiet. Arrived before lunch at prebooked hotel and was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the accomodation for 40 dollars

Lunch was not available at the hotel so I was directed to a shed like building on a garage forecourt about 50 metres away. It was certainly a lesson on not judging a book by its cover.

Inside it was bustling with people waiting for tables. It could have been Sunday lunchtime anywhere in the world with families all out together. The food was good and the service excellent, the thought crossed my mind that once Mcdonalds and the like "progress"to these parts all such family run establishments will be history. There is something that is just "nice "about such places and the way of life they represent, no counting how many chips in a portion here.

24/6/2013

 Set off for the border 20 kms away wondering what was in store. I don't know what i was expecting but after the excitement of the borders in Africa it was all rather tame, there were very few vehicles and everything was quite well organised.Pleased to say that my Spanish ( or miming ) is up to the task of getting me and the bike out of and into countries, i don't know if the Uraguayans fully understood when I told them I was there to escort Suarez back to Liverpool. Both sets of immigration and customs are in the same building so it makes things very simple.I asked if I could just turn around and go back but they said I had to spend a night in Uraguay,No mention of insurance by the Uraguayans and I was on my way.

 Stopped at the first place I came to.It just happened to be a Spa with thermal springs and very nice too.





SPA HOTEL

As it had hot springs there was plenty of hot water and the time was early I got a wash on . Out for a walk with my "spare" trousers on I realised I had made a big mistake when the press stud button at the top of the fly kept popping open. There is no way I can lose wt. here and the next hour was spent drying my washing with the hair-dryer.I felt so bad about my clothes not fitting I had salad as one of three courses at lunch and went for a long walk after.

   Obviously I am on the right track. One thing that is a bit odd though is that I feel like a teenager in this hotel, sitting down to lunch was a bit like being in a rest home.

RUSH HOUR IN PARADISE

25/6/2013

 Re-entering Argentina is a bit more officious than going into Uraguay but is still very straight forward. All the concerns I had have disapeared now as I have finally realised there is nothing magic about any of this, hundreds of vehicles pass every border every day.

BRIDGE BETWEEN URAGUAY AND ARGENTINA AT SALTO

Early stop and feeling a bit frustrated. The trip for me is not looking at things and wandering from place to place. I want to get to Ushuaia and begin the trip north but the weather is too cold down there at the moment and I have got to be patient so will meander back to Buenos Aires over a couple of days.

26/6/2013

Relaxed 200 kms to Gualeguaychu ,the first 100 in fog. Hotel decent enough but there is something a bit sad about holiday resorts out of season.

RIVER GUALEGUAYCHU

PROMENADE

27/6/13

Returned to Buenos Aires arriving in the rush hour just to give a bit of excitement to the day.A few days to kill before flying back so no real excuse for not seeing the sights as recommended by the guide books.
 Seems like all big proud cities are being turned into themed shopping malls.

PATRON SAINT OF ARGENTINA

NO COMMENT NECESSARY

  

FAST FORWARD A FEW YEARS

  

Next episode end of August, Buenos Aires to Ushuaia.

View Buenos Aires to Ushuaia and Punta Arenas in a larger map

BUENOS AIRES APRIL 2013

29/3/2013

   Meticulous planning had me arriving on Good Friday and sitting out the holidays waiting for the bike. Need to get more wt off, 19 hr flight squashed between the arm rests is not the most comfortable way to travel and having to be greased up to squeeze into a Buenos Aires Taxi has motivated me to slim down.
  A lot of reading and listening had me think that Buenos Aires was a sort of war zone with muggers lining up to take turns on the tourists.
  Discovered why the hotel was so reasonably priced.To be fair, a smaller person would have been able to fit in the room together with the baggage and it was clean.



30/3/2013



 Breakfast buffet was worth the price of the room alone.
 Turns out there is such a thing as a free lunch. At least when the restaurant accepts dollars at 50% more than the official exchange rate there is.
 Nice to have a sleep in the afternoon, especially after eating a char-grilled cow. It's fairly obvious that this is not the place to lose wt or expect my gout to go away.



3/4/2013



 Good news, bike loaded in Capetown.
 Bad news, bike off loaded in Johannesburg

 Promised now for Friday 5th.meaning clearance on Monday 8th.

 Discovered that floods were devastating the city, I guess I was just in the right place as apart from a bit of rain there was nothing untoward in central Buenos Aires.




5/4/2013

 Visited Javier and Sandra at Dakar Motos to check all in order for getting the bike tomorrow. 



vaya con dios

8/4/13



  After a weekend involving Salsa, meat, tango, meat, cemetery and more meat arrived at the airport to clear the bike.The whole process was painless and the value of using somebody who knows what they are doing and what is required was obvious.The bike was cleared in a couple of hours.

  Followed Javier back to their place.I hadn't realised how fast my heart could beat without having a heart attack. Threading through the Buenos Aires traffic is exhilerating to say the least, luckily my speedo was not working but I do know that nobody was going faster.My hands could be prised free of the bars after about ten minutes and with clean underwear I was good to go.

 Many thanks to Javier and Sandra for all the help.Once again no matter how impressive the landscapes,  people  leave the lasting impressions.

February 2013 Preparing for South America

Returned to South Africa to arrange the bike transport to Buenos Aires.Completely different view of the place in the sunshine and arriving by air.Definitely a country to return to. I think I'll run out of breath before I run out of places to return to.
  The bike was delivered to Menzies air at Capetown Airport Cargo and after clearing through customs the job was done. Bradly Van Wyk at Menzies could not have been more helpful and even agreed to store the bike for a month before shipping ( free of charge ).
 Airfreight will go around the 29 March and due to public holidays in Argentina will be cleared around the 5 April .

 Many thanks to Tony for all his help in South Africa, it must be a relief to have his lounge back.