Travelling around I began to wonder at what stage money becomes clean. Given that Bolivia is not a rich country it seemed a little incongruous to see Mercedes, Porsche, Bmw and Ferrari agents side by side open for business. I am sure they are not there just in case . I guess business is business.
My friends from Samaipata had arranged a taxi for me to bring me to collect my bike, unfortunately the rain was still hammering down. One of the charms of Bolivia is the road network and the abundance of unpaved roads. After my adventures in Patagonia I am very wary about venturing on wet unpaved roads and as my route included almost 100 miles of " Ripio " through the mountains I abandoned all hope of reaching Ecuador and decided that when it was dry I would base myself in Cochabamba and take things easy.
Hotel in Samaipata was an eco hotel and having nothing to do but chill for a couple of days I learned to appreciate the quiet that goes with staying in an hotel 3000 mtres up in the Andies, and about 5 kms outside of the town. I didn't quite make it to the top of all the walls.
It's amazing how comfortable somewhere can be made using basic materials and imagination
Finally the day came to head for the hills and an easy 250 miles from Samaipata to Cochabamba. Set off in bright sunshine down to main road and waved goodbye to my new friend Maarten who had been looking after my bike for me, once again I had found kindness and good people to help me realize my dream. The first part of the road was good and the going was easy, I had had advice as to where to buy petrol so duly pulled in to fill up.
I suppose the biggest difference between being in a country where rules are enforced to the point where we are no longer free and some of the less developed countries is that common sense sometimes prevails. I am finding that a friendly demeaner gets me a long way here in Bolivia and after being told initially that I was unable to buy petrol because I was on a foreign registered bike eventually I was able to buy at the local rate , this was after a committee meeting of the various layers of seniority in the middle of the forecourt.
A smile and a friendly wave and we are once again on our ( my ) way. Even though I had been assured that the unpaved road was not much of a challenge I was still a little apprehensive as I got ever closer to the 80 miles of Ripio through the mountains.
I started on the packed gravel quite warily but gradually gained confidence and got my speed above wobble and after a while I started to wonder what I had been worrying about. Apart from a section that was still a bit damp the road was quite good and my fingers gradually released from vicelike to normal, other body parts unclenched as well.
The views were fantastic and looking back and seeing the road winding around the mountain was truly awesome, it is days like this that make it all worth while. I just wish I had taken more photographs. One thing is sure I have to come back here with a smaller bike.
Coming back onto the asphalt I headed across a plain, I don't know how high it was but it was freezing cold and it seems strange that everywhere is green, not at all as you would expect mountain tops to be. It was a hell of a buzz speeding across what seemed to be the top of the world. I didn't dwell on too many of the worlds problems as the ride was spellbinding. I am so glad I didn't wimp out and take the new paved route.
A very enjoyable ride to Cochabamba on an excellent road. I don't know what I was expecting but Bolivia is surprising me. The cities are quite modern and although supposedly a poorer country it is way above African standards. The driving in the cities although not good is way more easy to contend with than the likes of Istanbul.
Bolivia Motorcycle Adventures
